Where's Doris?

Well today has been long but interesting and involved a lot of driving, thank god for the sat nav as the road maps here seem to only show every third street and junction for some reason. Probably to keep them damn Ruskies out. Or I-wrackies, whoever it is now. I just have to mention that I think this is the most Republican place I have ever been, probably accentuated by the fact that I've been in lots of leftie-pinko cities for the last three weeks. Every house has a flag, every street has a "Support our Troops" memorial and every pick-up truck has a McCain sticker on it. In fact the venerable senator will be here in a couple of weeks for a fund raiser with Kid Rock. Who knew rock and roll and 72 year old politicians went together? In spite of this the people here are absolutely lovely. 

Actually that's just my terrible prejudices showing through. I'm sure there are lots of lovely Republicans, apparently The McCain himself is a great bloke. Just been soured by Bush, Reagan and Thatcher over the years. So if you are a nice right-winger let me know and accept my pinko apologies for judging you.

I started the day at the Western Plains Museum here in Spearfish. It was one of those great places that haven't changed for years. The type of museum where the costumes are on shop dummies from 1977 and the cabinets are full of dead animals in 'realistic' poses. The lady at the desk was amazed that I was from Australia, apparently we are a rare occurrence here, even though there is a kangaroo farm just down the road. I kid you not, people come from miles around, and even interstate, to see the "Roo Ranch". I had to explain that in Oz most of the 'roos we see are road kill. The museum drove home to me that this is the real wild west, every display involved ropin', herdin', brandin' and big hats. It doesn't look much like the old west from the movies, but that's because most of that was filmed 20 miles from downtown Los Angeles. My favourite display was the case containing the "shaved beaver". No explanation was given why this would be required but the label made me shoot ice tea out my nose.

Then it was off to Deadwood. This was a bit of a disapointment really. It looks just like an old town, all the buildings are still there but they are all full of casinos. And shops selling tat obviously. I was expecting a place a bit like Kalgoorlie, and it certainly had the feel of Kal, but Deadwood is basically, and rather aptly, a dead town. The gambling was brought in to pay for the upkeep of the historic buildings but it's failed. Just because a building has the facade of the Number 10 Saloon doesn't mean it's still the place that Wild Bill Hickock was gunned down. Especially when it's full of slot machines. And tourist tat. I was really looking forward to having a drink in the Gem Saloon, but realised that it's just a modern casino complex with a "old" sign on it. No Al Swearengen, no swearing. I think the chamber of commerce is a bit embarrassed about the HBO Deadwood as it doesn't fit with their "family friendly destination" promotion of the place (how a street full of casinos is family friendly I'll never know) and it has completely failed to capitalise on it. And lets face it that show is the main reason I'm here, I'm slightly ashamed to admit. It was interesting to go to the museum and realise that all the characters in the show are pretty much real people, although with some major artistic licence. For example in real life Sol Star and Seth Bullock actually arrived in town on the same day Wild Bill was killed. And the real Sheriff Bullock was not quite and photogenic as Timothy Olliphant. Who knows though, he might have walked in a weird way too. I also broke one of my rules today and went to see some graves. I've always thought this was a weird thing to do on holiday and a little bit pointless, but today I did go and see where Seth Bullock, Wild Bill and Calamity Jane were laid to rest. Me and 150 day trippers so not the most spiritual place I've ever been. Again it's a bit fake: the memorial on Wild Bill's grave dates from all of 2005 so there is absolutely nothing real to see. Pity. 

I can't believe it's taken me this long to realise that TV isn't real life.