Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Frost/Nixon
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Get in Early
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Twas the Night
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Driving Me Crazy
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
The Property Dance

Sunday, December 7, 2008
Jet Lagged
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Heathrow
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
White cliffs of Dover & Joy of John Lewis
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Oh no it isn't!
Friday, November 28, 2008
Healthy Breakfast
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Je suis juste revenu de Paris...
..et je l'ai vraiment apprécié. OK I think that's plus de Français pour the moment. So as you may guess I have just got back from a trip to Paris with the folks. It was great, I'd not been for a long time but it doesn't seem to change much, the eternal city and all that (or that might be Rome, whatever, it'll do).
For the first time though I went on the Eurostar through the Channel Tunnel. Sadly it now leaves from St Pancras so the French don't have to see 'Waterloo' every time they look at the departures board in the Gare Du Nord. Luckily the new station is absolutely spectacular. In true modern British style it's basically yet another shopping centre that just happens to have trains in it but it looks lovely. The trains are great: fast and smooth but the security at St Pancras is ludicrous. They have airline style security with x-ray machines, metal detectors and rent-a-goons intimidating everyone and confiscating pen knives. Has nobody pointed out that trains are not like 'planes; if someone runs amok on the Eurostar you just stop and everyone gets off, you can't do that in a 747: if a crazed terrorist hijacks a train he's going to have quite a challenge in ramming it into a 110 storey office block. It's a bit bizarre. If this security was really needed on trains surely you'd do it at every station in the country and on every entrance to every Tube station in London? Oh no, because that would be far too difficult and might have actually stopped the 7/7 bombers. Hey-ho, you should all be used to my rants about security theatre by now. This one is made more personal as I had my bags emptied and searched by some goon at St Pancras. My letters of complaint are already on their way to the authorities.
So anyway after 3 hours on the train (eating sandwiches from Marks and Spencer, how English can you get?) we got to Paris and that's where I realised that even though I can speak French a bit I can't really understand it at all. The first conversation went something like this:
Me - "Bonjour Madame, nous avons une réservation pour deux salles pendant trois nuits"
Receptionist - "D'accordvousavezunnombrederéservationoulenoms'ilvousplaît?"
Me - "Errr, plus lentement s'il vous plaît madame"
Receptionist - "Name please"
This happens a lot, I speak French, they answer in French then I look blank for a while 'till they answer in English. This also messes with your brain as you desperately try to change gear and think in English again. To be fair to myself I did get better as the week went on but I'll never be good at it as I don't have the lips. French seems to be very pouty lip intensive when spoken. We managed to order dinner in a bistro where the waiter spoke no English and didn't end up with some strange french concoction like raw horse meat stuffed in ducks gizzards. However I did learn that there seems to be no French for chicken breast. It's either 'poulet' or nothing. See they'll eat anything the French. It sounds like I hate them but actually I really like France and the people are generally really helpful and friendly, especially if you at least try to speak the lingo.
We went for a wander round after we arrived and discovered that I had managed to book a hotel in the rather less salubrious end of the 18th Arrondissement, the Pigalle on one side with it's sex shops and 'revues' and the Goute D'or on the other with it's multi ethnic, working class vibe (I'm trying to be polite, just use your imagination). It did at least mean we had lots of life going on around us and surprisingly few tourists except those going to visit the Sacré Coeur. It was the Ibis and I can reccommend it, it's cheap, near to Anvers and Pigalle Metro stations and the top floor rooms have fantastic views over Paris. As long as you don't mind the lift which is the size of a broom cupboard. I kid you not, it says the capacity is four people but they would have to be either very friendly or have laid off the pies for a few months before the trip.
It may be because there seem to be very few fat people in Paris that they can get away with such tiny lifts. Everyone is really slim and generally stylish. It must be all the fags they smoke. That and the fact that there seemed to be absolutely no lifts or escalators anywhere in the Metro. I have never been up and down so many steps in my entire life. At this point I'd like to defend the Tube in London. I am always being told how great the Metro is compared to poor old London and, yes it's cheaper and more frequent, but the stations are bloody awful, dirty, confusing and dirty. And did I mention dirty? Even when I knew I wasn't getting off in murderville it sometime felt like it, as so many of the stations look abandoned and graffiti covered. Actually the street artists in Paris must be pretty brave as there was even graffiti in the tunnels of the Metro. If you tried that in London you'd be smeared along the tunnel wall in a very colourful way. Even Banksy would find it hard to sell stuff after that. The other thing is that the doors on the trains stay open for about 10 seconds at each station, as my dad discovered on the first train we got on when he was viciously pinned in the doors as the train started moving. We should have been warned as the signs on the door say "Keep hands away from the doors as they may be pinched very hard". They're not kidding.
Once he'd been extricated from the door mechanism we did the tourist stuff, Musée d'Orsay, Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Sacre Cour, Notre Dame, Champs Élysées, Arc De Triomphe. You know the drill. All very good, all full of art and views and stuff. I did discover that the French have a different idea about security (here we go again). Every place we went involved a bag search and a metal detector. However they would be pretty easy to fool. For example at the Musée d'Orsay the guy looking in the bag just looked in the bag, just the top where you open the zip. That was it. If you wanted to smuggle in a bomb or smuggle out the Mona Lisa you just needed to hide it under a few tissues. Not exactly foolproof. And the metal detector at the Eiffel Tower was even better. Even after I'd emptied all my pockets it was still beeping. The woman in charge just looked at me, gave a fantastic gallic shrug and waved me through. Brilliant.
Actually the museums and galleries are all a bit overwhelming, to find you self standing in a room with 15 van Goghs on the wall and realising that they are all worth at least $10,000,000 each is quite an experience. Same with the Louvre. "Oh yes over there it's the Venus de Milo and the Mona Lisa is round the corner. Now where's the café?". Actually it doesn't matter where the café, is you can guarantee it'll be extortionately expensive. We paid 40€ (or €40, I have no idea which way round it's meant to go, and neither do the French by the looks of the price tickets) for lunch. That was two crôque monsieurs (the only thing you learn to order in french lessons at high school), a bowl of onion soup and three coffees. That is about £33 or AU$80!
So a few tips for travelling to Paris:
Bring lots of money.
Zebra crossings are just suggestions, DO NOT expect vehicle to let you cross at them.
Bring more money.
Teenagers smoke pipes. It's normal here so don't stare.
They really do sell beer in McDonalds; as part of the meal deal too. Enjoy it as it's all you'll be able to afford to eat after a few days.
Do not expect any of the lifts or automatic doors to work at the Gare Du Nord. The unions won't allow it.
Check very carefully before wandering into the shop with the lovely christmas display window of Santa and his reindeer. It's probably a sex shop.
The only shows on the TV with sub-titles are from French Canada. No, I don't get it either.